freshwater aquarium test kit
Thursday, July 31st, 2008So I have spent many hours researching, planning and development of your tank. Everything seems ideal for a few weeks, then "It" hits "that" begins as a small green or red patch on one of the rocks of a few days later, most of the green rock shows and before you know it your beautiful aquarium looks like the field at Yankee Stadium. Then ask yourself why? How? What now? You can even have thoughts of adding a chemical treatment or worse, quit. But do not worry "It" is only nuisance algae, and like anything else Can be treated with. Most if not all can be treated the same way, by eliminating the food source agencies. "Easier said than done" you say, "What about my other tank inhabitants? Here is a list of things you can do to reduce and eventually eliminate nuisance algae without damaging your tank.
1. Use only RO / DI water. Water from a reverse osmosis unit is striped of nitrate, phosphate, silicate and other nutrients algae possible. This water should be used for compensation and higher water changes. It should also be your first step in the fight against algae, and remedy a host of problems with nitrates.
2. Increase water movement. This is a double solution, first keeping cuttings suspended in the water column and allows anyone to be filtered or eaten. It also makes it difficult for algae to join in the substrate or rocks. This is usually a good solution for diatoms.
3. Running a phosphate remover as a Phosban phosphate reactor. Just enough phosphates are generally the main cause of algae and chances are annoying if your test is likely that phosphates are not receiving a reading to them. This is mainly due to the algae is using up phosphate at a pace so fast that almost undetectable in the marine aquarium.
4. Run a stirrer phosphate on top water and / or change of water if your test kits test for phosphate. This will remove phosphate before feeding your algae.
5. Change bulbs if more than 6-9 months of age. My suggestion is 6 months for PC and 9 months to a year for metal halide. Loses its illumination spectrum and intensity as bulbs grow … Do not go into details of how or why, because his 20-page blog in itself.
6. Reduce your photo-period. Cut the lights again, if they have invested love light.
7. Reduce the amount of food. We all love our fish and corals but lets face it this is not a Big Bertha's all you can eat buffet. I think my tank inhabitant up to four times a week, but I sure everyone is fed into the tank properly. The only feeds the tank of more pollutants than are available to feed its algae.
8. Elevating magnesium levels to 1600ppm. This will help control the Bryopsis hair algae.
9. Clean the crew. Be sure to keep a good cleaning effective crew. Astrea Turbo Snails, crabs Vermithrax emerald diadema urchins and hermit crabs blue feet are what I suggest for hair algae and debris cleanup. There are many more, but that's for another blog in the future next.
10. Water changes. Your aquarium is a closed unit, there is a constant supply of fresh seawater to remove all pollutants. The only way to get new water water change the OFC. The general idea on this is 10% of its tanks total volume of water (including water in the sump, skimmer and refugium if applicable). While you are changing the water to make a Turkey Baster and off the remains of his live rock and suck it out!
11. Get an efficient skimmer. Fractioners foam as it is sometimes referred to as, eliminate organic waste from our systems to ensure that theirs is a nice dark color producing smelly mess.
12. Add a refugium. Add cheatomorpha controlled algae as to compete with their nuisance algae. This is also a great place for copepods and amphipods to reproduce and live.
13. Check your carbon. Believe or not will filter some carbon in phosphate! Check the label to see if its use will be filtered or not, usually says "that not leach phosphate "in the package.
14. Pull it. Get a jump start hair algae manually pulling it out. Make sure when you she's pulling miss an installment.
There are probably most useful techniques in controlling algae, however, these are those who have worked for me, while I was struggling with green hair, red hair algae.
Fishless Cycling for a Freshwater Aquarium
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Freshwater Master Test Kit
$18.04 For the professional aquarist or in-store testing of tap water and aquarium water. Sturdy, waterproof box includes fast, easy and accurate test solutions for ph, high range ph, ammonia, nitrite, gh and kh. Includes free wall chart and color cards. Includes Four Test Tubes, Caps, Computer-Analyzed Laminated Color Charts, Instructions, Holding Tray, And Test Tube Rack.... |
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Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aquarian Freshwater Master Test Kit
$19.90 A complete test kit for testing tap and aquarium water. Tests six different potentially dangerous water conditions. Includes Freshwater pH, High Range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Kit features computer-analyzed laminated color cards, instruction booklet, 4 test tubes, a holding tray and test tube rack.Freshwater pH Test Instructions:Why Test pH?pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH rea... |
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Mardel 5-in-1 Test Strips (Freshwater/Saltwater)
5in1 Strips (Freshwater/Saltwater) 100ct... |
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Aquarium Pharmaceuticals? Freshwater/Saltwater Phosphate Test Kit (150 Tests)
$11.01 Test reads 0 to 10 mg/ or parts per million (ppm) of phosphate. Helps to decrease the likelyhood og having unsightly algae and green water blooms.Test kit of 150 tests.Why test for Phosphate?Phosphate enters the aquarium from fish and invertebrate waste and decaying organic matter, such as dead algae and uneaten fish food. Water treatment facilities may add phosphate to tap water to prevent pipe c... |
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Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Test Kit Fw/Sw Copper
$7.12 Fresh/Saltwater Copper Test Kit... |
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Freshwater Test Kit Review
$10.95 This book is a collection of reviews of the most popular and common freshwater test kits in the areas of pH, ammonia, water hardness, and nitrite & nitrate. Chapter 1 is a review of seven freshwater pH test kits. This chapter deals with the most important water quality in an aquarium. ALL other water parameters affect and/or are affected by pH. Chapter 2 is a review of seven freshwater ammonia tes... |
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